One of the best instances of travel serendipity I’ve experienced was being in Siena in Tuscsany when they were running the Palio. The Palio is a traditional bareback horse race that has been taking place in Siena for over 300 years – it is now held every July 2 and August 16. The days leading up to each race are filled with ceremonies and practice races. We happened to be there on June 29th, three days before the official race. On this day, horses are assigned to each contrade (neighborhood), and the first trial races are held.
(You can learn more about the Palio here.)
There are 17 contrade in Siena – each represented by its own symbols, colors, song, and flag. Ten of the contrade compete in each Palio – loyalties are strong, rivalry is fierce, and trash-talking is encouraged! Each neighborhood is rabid in the support of its horse and rider – with parades, parties and shared meals in the days leading up to the race. The map below shows the symbols for each contrade:
The kids really got into learning about the different contrade symbols and choosing their loyalties!
Wandering the narrow streets before the race, you’d happen upon marches and spontaneous gatherings – folks rallying around singing their contrade songs.
When it was time for the race, everyone made their way to the circular Piazza del Campo, or town center, to witness the spectacle. The race is run around the outer edge of the Piazza, surrounded by buildings – so once you commit to watching the race from the Piazza, you are there ’til it’s over! Swarms of people gathered in the center, in bleachers around the perimeter, and in the windows of the surrounding buildings.
Before the race begins, and after the folks in the center are gated in, there are two rounds of clearing the track. First, police officers walk the track to hustle along any stragglers who might still be wandering around. Then, the cleaning crew comes through to make sure it’s clear and safe for the horses and riders.
Then it’s race time! The crowd goes wild as the horses and riders make their way around the track – each contrade trying to out cheer the others. Our support paid off – one of the kids in our group picked the winning contrade for that race!
After the race, the people in each neighborhood parade their horses through the walled streets cheering and celebrating – with us right along with them.
We felt so lucky to have experienced such a local and honored tradition – this was one of my top experiences in Italy!
